Exploring the Marché aux Puces

Have you ever imagined yourself wandering through the lengendary markets of the Marche Aux Puces de Saint Ouen, visiting sites made famous in countless movies and other media - and in PARIS???  Like so much of the City of Light, it's a pinch-me-I'm-dreaming kind of place but also a spectacular shopping experience - full of objects with provenance for real homes and businesses.  Join me on a virtual tour.....

A delightful showroom in Marché Vernaison

A delightful showroom in Marché Vernaison

We have a saying in our family, "It's good to be a regular!"  And of course I would add, "...in Paris!!!"  After a wonderful trip to Italy and France in 2014 to celebrate my 60th birthday, we returned to France last month and spent one blissful, languorous week in the sun at Hotel Le Hameau in St Paul de Vence and 3 active (!) weeks in Paris, in accomodations through Guest Apartment Services.    We traveled to Paris (and France, generally) to assess trends at Maison et Objet (see my post on that here), shop at the Marché aux Puces and also the Village St Paul in the Marais, and - certainly not least - celebrate our 30th Anniversary....! 

Ile St Louis is a perfect location - halfway between St Germain and le Marais

Ile St Louis is a perfect location - halfway between St Germain and le Marais

This year, we rented an apartment on l'ile St Louis and were found regularly at the cafe St Regis, on the northern tip (northwestern?) of the island.  It's a grand place to while away the time watching people from all over the world discover Paris for the first time and try to pick out the locals, while sipping an extremely pale rosé or a chilled Chablis.  The food there is very good, too....

We were regulars at the Cafe St Regis on Ile St Louis

We were regulars at the Cafe St Regis on Ile St Louis

Just a few step from Cafe St Regis is a pedestrian-only bridge accross the Seine leading to Ile de la Cité and Notre Dame.  There are always musicians of one genre or another performing.   Ahhhhh......

Just a few step from Cafe St Regis is a pedestrian-only bridge accross the Seine leading to Ile de la Cité and Notre Dame.  There are always musicians of one genre or another performing.   Ahhhhh......

OK, on to the Flea Market.....

Having shopped at the Marché aux Puces last year, and now again this year, I guess we're almost regulars! There is really so much to see - it's over 20 acres of dealers' showrooms/stalls so it entails a huge amount of walking, though, being Paris, there are plenty of places to take a break for a meal and wine.  But be sure to wear comfortable shoes anyway!

Here are some of my favorite images from our day this year:

Bachelier Antiquités  never disappoints

Bachelier Antiquités  never disappoints

Fun industrial chic 

Fun industrial chic 

LOVE the juxtaposition of the retro motorbike and amethyst, amber and jade green glass bottles

LOVE the juxtaposition of the retro motorbike and amethyst, amber and jade green glass bottles

I think I've found something interesting...

I think I've found something interesting...

The coolest vintage clothing and jewelry

The coolest vintage clothing and jewelry

Guess who loved this dealer's place?  I love the little Paris photo prop behind....

Guess who loved this dealer's place?  I love the little Paris photo prop behind....

Those seltzer bottles!

Those seltzer bottles!

....and these chairs

....and these chairs

Sort of what you'd expect in the way of French furniture, though the white is unusual.  (Does that wrinkled rug bother anyone else??) 

Sort of what you'd expect in the way of French furniture, though the white is unusual.  (Does that wrinkled rug bother anyone else??) 

Looks like a little village but is just one of the Marchés

Looks like a little village but is just one of the Marchés

A private restroom for vendors.....don't tell

A private restroom for vendors.....don't tell

Francois Bachelier et moi

Francois Bachelier et moi

While in Bachelier Antiquités, I found these wine box remnants and was given a super price, I guess because I bought so much there last year - or maybe it's because Bob made friends with Maman Bachelier....  Anyway, yes, it's good to be a regular!

Posted on October 15, 2015 and filed under Paris, Marche aux Puces st Ouen.

Trends: Maison et Objet 2015, Merci and paris streets

Seen again and again - teal and nutmeg

Seen again and again - teal and nutmeg

After being completely overwhelmed on my first-ever visit to Maison et Objet 2014 - but thrilled at the same time - what could I do but plan a return visit??  And, of course, I coerced my favorite photographer (my husband, Bob) to accompany me, again....

I didn't see everything - there are 8 enormous convention center-sized halls, so we had to prioritize - I did make it to 5 different buildings!  

It's almost hard to fathom how huge this show is

It's almost hard to fathom how huge this show is

Here are some of the interesting standouts.  First of all, color:

Look at the colors here.... nary a primary in sight

Look at the colors here.... nary a primary in sight

The color combinations were intriguing.  I was struck by the candle display, above.  These are the products that vendors believe will sell in the near future - not a lot of bright here!  Contrast it with last year's display:

More saturated color in 2014

More saturated color in 2014

Then, there's what I like to call "The Mix".  To me, this is truly Contemporary (not to be confused with "Modern", which is a style in its own right) and reflective of Collected Design, which is really how we live.

Note the mismatched chairs - all styles!  I love everything about this.

Note the mismatched chairs - all styles!  I love everything about this.

This year, as last year, I saw TONS of copper and lots of baskets, bringing a natural warmth to spaces.

All of the above fixtures are by Light & Living, which doesn't seem to be available in the US.....hmmmm

All of the above fixtures are by Light & Living, which doesn't seem to be available in the US.....hmmmm

Love the baskets, retro/vintage light fixtures and, of course, terra cotta!

Love the baskets, retro/vintage light fixtures and, of course, terra cotta!

This is interesting.... lots of "Wild West"/Native American influences:

Right at home on the trail....

Right at home on the trail....

Made to look vintage/worn

Made to look vintage/worn

More of the Teal & Nutmeg.... with a little bit of a 1970's Missoni feel

DSC00422.JPG

...and talk about colors!  Vivaraise, a French company, had the spectrum covered - and this was just 20% of their display!

Everything textile one can imagine....

Everything textile one can imagine....

So many of the vignettes are utterly charming...

Candlesticks and battery-operated candles - what's not to love?

Candlesticks and battery-operated candles - what's not to love?

After we recovered from Maison et Objet, the next destination was Le Marais, in general, and Merci, specifically!  If you've never experienced Merci, it is amazing:  wonderful women's and men's clothing, housewares, small home appliances, electronics - a hip destination.  Plus, there's a super cute Fiat in the front courtyard!

Merci front courtyard

Merci front courtyard

Once inside, a few things struck me - like the "Fistful of Dollars" vibe of these ponchos:

Once again, the Wild West

Once again, the Wild West

Was this the muse?

Was this the muse?

I explored more of Merci and was struck by this on-trend display of Murano glass, industrial chic and stoneware.  The Mix!

Upstairs at Merci

Upstairs at Merci

As we strolled down Rue Beaumarchais on our way toward Place des Vosges, this window display caught my eye -  that color combo again!

..... and, farther into Le Marais, here it is again:

It was so enlightening to see how trends cross cultures and industries: fashion influences home decor and vice-versa, Old World influences New and back again.  It's a small planet!  

Posted on October 8, 2015 and filed under Trends.

Of course, leopard is a neutral!

I had intended to take a few weeks' hiatus after the New Year, but with one thing or another, here I am -  and it's early March.   Where does the time go?!

This latest blog topic is something that's near and dear to my heart - and never goes out of style. Animal print. Specifically, leopard, which is definitely a neutral when used judiciously.  But be warned: too much, and it veers toward Flintstonian...

  

Some of the following images are taken from my Pinterest board "Wild for animal print".  There's a little bit of something for almost anyone.....

 

Wild Decor: a little touch is just right

Fairly neutral with just a pop of color

Fairly neutral with just a pop of color

In French, this would be called "mignon"

In French, this would be called "mignon"

Great accent piece

Great accent piece

This would look fab with hot pink accents....

This would look fab with hot pink accents....

A little Rococo never hurt anyone

A little Rococo never hurt anyone

Just a bit of zebra adds some graphic interest....(I know, not leopard - but I like it!  The mantel styling is good, too)

Just a bit of zebra adds some graphic interest....(I know, not leopard - but I like it!  The mantel styling is good, too)

Again, a small touch with big impact

Again, a small touch with big impact

 

Wear it like you mean it!

Vintage

Vintage

 

Wild accessories to wear or use....

Reduce inflammation with a stylish ice pack...

Reduce inflammation with a stylish ice pack...

Love, love, love!

Love, love, love!

Crazy, wild indulgence:

OK, doesn't everyone need one of these?

OK, doesn't everyone need one of these?

Animal print adds a little something unexpected to an outfit or a room.  And, in measured doses, is totally a neutral!  

Maybe this is too much...?!

Maybe this is too much...?!

Posted on March 3, 2015 and filed under Animal Print.

We wish you the merriest, the merriest!

If, like me, you're not spending the holidays in Paris or Rome, but you've wistfully thought of it, maybe dreamed about it, please enjoy this feast for the eyes and a vacarious vacation:  some Christmas images from my two favorite places:  France and Italy. Maybe next year will be the year for the Strasbourg Christmas market, the largest in Europe....!  Have a wonderful holiday!

Strasbourg, France Christmas Market

Strasbourg, France Christmas Market

St. Peter's, Rome

St. Peter's, Rome

Vintage French postcard

Vintage French postcard

Firenze

Firenze

French home décor 

French home décor 

Bologna, Italy

Bologna, Italy

Nice, France

Nice, France

Rome, Italy

Rome, Italy

Buche de Noël 

Buche de Noël 

Paris

Paris

May all of your dreams come true!  Joyeux Noël and Buon Natale!


Posted on December 22, 2014 and filed under Paris.

Confessions of an over-packer (and my subsequently developed list of travel essentials!)

I love to do jigsaw puzzles and pack "things" into other things uber-efficiently.  So, of course, no matter how hard I try not to, I can't seem to not over-pack my suitcase!  Squeezing in just one more rolled-up article of clothing is almost addicting....but that makes bags much heavier, too, unfortunately.  

Roll, roll, roll your clothes....

Roll, roll, roll your clothes....

In fact, on my last trip we shipped home one suitcase, full, because it was so heavy to lift on and off the train. It was obvious I didn't need all that I had brought.....Plus, there wasn't room for new purchases!

 

So, through trial and error, I've settled on some fabulous, can't-miss items, that can help make traveling a little more efficient, comfortable and stylish!

Storage:

Samsonite Curve - Super light and the ones made in the EU are much better looking than those made in China, which is all you can find in the US.  You can buy online at Valigeria Gazzarini  - they ship anywhere!  I shopped in their store in Firenze and was happy to be able to order from them when I returned home.

The 25" bag is only 7lbs!

The 25" bag is only 7lbs!

Baggalini wheeled tote - Fits under most airplane seats and carries all the essentials:  laptop, tablet, makeup, jewelry, extras.  It also does double duty as a rolling briefcase.

Telescoping handle and a sleeve to slip it over a large suitcase handle

Telescoping handle and a sleeve to slip it over a large suitcase handle

Baggalini expandable tote bag - So lightweight, yet hauls so much!  Carry it on as your "purse" along with the wheeled tote.  You can stash your crossbody bag (below) in it along with a book, magazines, camera, etc., then use it later on the trip to hold impromptu purchases!

Lightweight nylon and foldable

Lightweight nylon and foldable

 

Cocoon Gridit for laptop and tablets - These handy cases protect your laptop or tablet and keep all essential accessories in one easy-to-access place:  power chargers, adapters, earbuds, pens & pencils, etc. 

Everything in its place

Everything in its place

High*Way cross body bag - I bought this bag for traveling and it performed so well, I bought another for everyday.  It's compact, has a zillion compartments (many zippered), is super secure when worn crossbody, and is made by an artisan in New York, Jem Leaf.

I love my High*Way bag!  (It's the metallic one...!)

I love my High*Way bag!  (It's the metallic one...!)

Tumi Windsor jewelry roll up - This will hold enough women's (and men's) jewelry to take you through the glitziest trips and has an easy-to-fasten clasp.  Plus, you can't beat the reliability of Tumi quality.

Shoe bags - Protect everything else in your bag from street grime (ew!) while you protect your shoes.  And stash extras (they don't take up much room!) to wrap those delicate purchases you've found on your travels.....

Accessories for luggage: 

Passport cover & luggage tags - Dress up your luggage and it's easier to find on the carousel.  I love these leopard items from J Crew!

Is there ever too much animal print??

Is there ever too much animal print??

Makeup/grooming:

Battery lighted makeup mirror - For years, I travelled with a magnifying mirror and sought out the best natural light in the hotel room for applying makeup - woe to early morning flights or trains!  But then I found this battery-powered mirror by Floxite that takes up just a tad more packing space than the other mirror and even has a little tray for small items.

An excellent quality mirror

An excellent quality mirror

Trish McEvoy planner - As a designer, and a faithful Trish user since 1997, I appreciate functionally beautiful design and these planners have it!  They hold the magnetic "pages" containing the eyeshadow and blush I use every day as well as all the brushes.  Then, everything is just popped into the planner, which goes into the wheeled tote.  One less thing to think about.

 Sleek and organized

 

Sleek and organized

Samples - I collect a variety of samples and travel sizes of everything from luxury skin care to deodorant, then stow them away and take inventory about 2 weeks before leaving for a trip to see what needs replenishing. 

 

Clothes:

Shoes that do double duty - Since I usually journey either to large cities or warm places, I love sandals that can dress up or down (I power walk in bronze FitFlops), casual walking shoes, strappy neutral or black sandals.  

Basics - Neutral colors (duh!), black, grey, pops of colorful tops, hand-washable items.  This outfit is, I think, a perfect travel ensemble!  Neutrals, crossbody bag.....

....stylish but comfortable metallic shoes.....

Cole Haan

Cole Haan

.......and a big cashmere scarf to wear and use as a blanket or pillow on the plane/train.

Indispensable:

Don't forget a camera!  I take a lot of pics with my phone, like almost everyone, but I love my Sony!  The photos are great, it has interchangeable lenses and it's really not that much effort to download to a laptop or tablet.....

Sony a6000

Sony a6000

Last word:

Finally, a wonderful attitude is the most indispensible travel accessory!  Remember, nothing is as important as it seems.... and the purpose of traveling is to get a little lost in order to find yourself!

Posted on December 8, 2014 and filed under Travel.

Fabulous French Tapestries & Rugs

I've always loved tapestries and Oriental rugs, particularly when they posess the gentle patina that antiques wear with pride, having acquired over time.  The intricate textures and colors help make any space incredibly luxurious, pleasantly muted and amazingly cozy.  

Recently, I was chatting about France with Seattle rug merchant - and fellow Francophile - Brad Andonian, of Pande Cameron and the subject of French rugs came up.   After having visited The Cluny Museum in Paris, and seeing their incredible collection, I was inspired to learn more.....

The Stately life, set of 6 tapestries in the Cluny

The Stately life, set of 6 tapestries in the Cluny

In the middle Ages, tapestries had a purely utilitarian function. They were designed for comfort: to protect medieval rooms from damp and cold weather and to cover the austere walls of unheated, cavernous castles. 

The Bayeux tapestry depicting the Norman conquest

The Bayeux tapestry depicting the Norman conquest

By the 1500’s tapestries were status symbols -  they were more expensive and labor-intensive than panel paintings and frescoes!  And they were still essential for comfort.

Some tapestries depicted favorite pastimes: the hunt, peasants at work & play or social scenes.

Hunt of the Unicorn

Hunt of the Unicorn

….. Eventually, pastoral landscapes or Verdure (my personal favorites!) were introduced. 

Verdure tapestry

Verdure tapestry

Detail of a 17th c verdure tapestry

Detail of a 17th c verdure tapestry

 

To see historical tapestries in person, there’s currently an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, “Grand Design”, through January 11, 2015.  Or, if you find yourself in Paris - which would be wonderful in and of itself - I can highly recommend The Cluny Museum, with its stellar collection of Gobelins tapestries, near the Sorbonne. 

Gobelins Lady and the Unicorn

Gobelins Lady and the Unicorn

The word tapestry derives from Old French tapisserie, from tapisser, meaning "to cover with heavy fabric, to carpet”, so it’s easy to see how intricate French rugs such as Savonnerie and Aubusson might have naturally evolved from tapestry.

 

Savonnerie rugs originated in 17th century France. They were first manufactured in a former soap factory (or “savon” in French), hence the name Savonnerie. 

Antique Savonnerie through Christies

Antique Savonnerie through Christies

 

Carpets produced by the Savonnerie before 1690 used designs by Charles Lebrun, who was the court painter to Louis XlV. 

Charles Lebrun painting of Louis XlV

Charles Lebrun painting of Louis XlV

Tapestry illustrating Louis XlV visting the Gobelins factory

Tapestry illustrating Louis XlV visting the Gobelins factory

 

Aubusson rugs, named for the town in central France where they were made, were based on Savonnerie rugs' motifs but were a bit less costly.

Antique Aubusson

Antique Aubusson

Antique Aubusson

Antique Aubusson

 

Before Aubusson, Savonnerie rugs were only available to the King.  With the more affordable Aubusson rug designs mimicking those of Savonnerie rugs, they became available to anyone to anyone who could afford them......

 

The Dowager Countess in a room with an Aubusson rug

The Dowager Countess in a room with an Aubusson rug

During the French Revolution, the golden thread of royal crowns, cyphers and fleurs-de-lys were cut from carpets that remained in storage, to further destroy royal references.

18c Versailles tapestry

18c Versailles tapestry

 

In 1825, the Savonnerie was incorporated with the Gobelins Manufactory, uniting tapestry and rugs. Many of their designs reflected Napoleon's Empire style.

Empire Style - Napoleon's chamber in the Grand Trianon at Versailles

Empire Style - Napoleon's chamber in the Grand Trianon at Versailles

Today, Savonnerie and Aubusson rug styles are still produced, and can be found in such high-quality rug stores as Pande Cameron in Seattle.   Here are some wonderful examples I saw on a recent visit:

Detail

Detail

While not technically a Savonnerie or Aubusson, the rug below displays some of the same classical style and would be at home in many different interiors.

 


Posted on November 17, 2014 and filed under Tapestry, Rugs.